Chang Sen Fang, Taoist Saint by Leo Foo, © 2006
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THE CONCERNED AND COURAGEOUS CODY'S
Once again, Bishop Thoburn calls upon Mary, this time to go to Taiping in Malaysia and become principal of the
Treacher Methodist Girl's School.
Mary is maturing as a missionary with the realization that many of the concepts used in her father's evangelical work at home don't
translate to Malaysian culture, but that when she teaches by example, the message is understood. Her thoughts are deepening as she strives to follow Christ,
she is learning to talk less and listen more. Returning from a bicycle ride, she finds the students "playing school" and joins in, later using the experience to
involve some of the English ladies in
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the growth of the native children. She is becoming aware of the "prejudice" some teachers have toward the natives.
Sensing this defect, she now understands that her native teachers-in-training have more potential than foreign missionaries
because they know the culture. The teacher is also student, able to measure her strengths as well as her weaknesses!
All is not work, for Mary and her friends Mr. and Mrs. Curtis and Mrs. Benjafield take a little vacation into the mountains, remarking on the riot of jungle
foliage as they go, carried by coolies.
The destination was a tea plantation 3800 feet above the city known as "the Nest".
On another occasion, she toured the Caves of Ipoh with it's marble grottoes, home of a temple. A Priest greets them and an acolyte leads them on a tour,
her wonder is tempered by her desire to clean the soot and dust away for a better view.
CHAPTER V
In Taiping, Perak
Mary was so successful in her work in Singapore that Bishop
Thoburn felt that she was the one with the courage and initiative
to fill a needed post in Taiping, Perak, Maylay States (now Malaysia).
She had to take over guidance of the whole school and build up a
new kindergarten.
On the trip to Taiping to take over the work, Mary brought
with her a letter from her father which called for a definite answer.
He, who had given his energies and financial help to evangelistic
causes, and helped establish several churches, could not quite
fathom why Mary was not managing some evangelism, at least as
an adjunct to her school teaching. So she wrote as follows: “My
dear Father, I respect your opinions and criticisms and am proud of
all you have done for the Kingdom of God on this earth. But I
want to make clear to you how the same beliefs are expressed in
my work with the children and young girls whom I am training.
My work offers great opportunities not only for religious instruction,
but we live daily with these people and personal contact is much
more effectual. What we do as Christ disciples, they can see and
follow, while very often what we say is Greek to them. Their ideas
are very different to ours. I do often speak of the love of God, and
we pray to the heavenly Father, but I often wonder what interpreta-
tion they put on what I say. They love us, and what we love they
love. Since I have been ill again and had to have a vacation, I
have been thinking about the power to follow Christ. We must
have it or else we cannot influence others. Our experience teaches
us so much. We find that our work develops us ever more and
more as new demands are made on us. This is only explained by
the power of God leading us."
On this steamer to Taiping, she again had that strange ex-
perience as when she went to Singapore. Her missionary salary
only permitted a second class ticket. Again, the captain of the
ship came to her and said, "I have a first class room I want you to
take." She had already suffered on her abstemious second class
fare and was sick of her bargain on her first day out. She was in-
vited to the captain’s table to eat. "l must be on my best behavior
at the Captain’s table, that is, listen more, and talk less; but no
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doubt the Captain will ask the usual questions. Do you as a
missionary expect to change these Asians superstitious ways?" And
I will reply, "We can build new ideas and something much better in
love and faith and decency through their little children/’ She
could have said, but of course would not, what many people said
of her: "She is so capable, astonishingly so, of transmitting the
essence of a new kindergarten philosophy to her students and from
them to the children."
One evening after school Sister went for a bicycle ride and
returned to find the children playing "school" on the lawn. She
arrived in time for the distribution of "prizes" in calesthenics.
Freda (a girl who played the violin) sat in the front on a higher
chair and addressed the children. She called on one she named
"Eairy". "Allow me to present to you this cupl" ln all solemnity
she held in her hand, a huge rubber football which had seen its
last use, ripped open and battered. Sister came from behind the
tree where she was peeking at the performance and joined the fun.
She knew she should be serious! She had to hold back her laughter.
They had done splendidly in a real calesthenics contest. "The
children are so graceful, more so than Europeans or Americans",
she said. She worked up a wonderful occasion. Two lovely English la-
dies were there to act as judges, very fair and appreciative. The kinder-
garten room was tastefully decorated with long ferns from the jungle.
They had many guests. As visitors came up the steps, a little Chinese
boy and a Tamil girl handed bouquets of flowers to the ladies. Mary
was proud of the clean white dresses on the girls and the Chinese
colored outfits added to the scene. This welcoming accomplished,
the children assembled for their "Literary Society" with one child pre-
siding in the higher chair. The Chinese children were given a part in
the program along with the others. To the new teachers this was
very instructive, as they were prejudiced. ln their "literary society
meeting", they told about President McKinley’s assassination, and,
immediately after that, of my arrival. Here it is: ’The new prin-
cipal has come, she is very kind. Her new duties are very big’."
Mary agreed and sometimes she wished she could go back im-
mediately to Singapore. However, she got a wheel ride each day
to see the magnificient foliage, streams and jungles, and these were
relaxing and pleasurable to her.
With a beautiful native girl named Victoria, a teacher in
training, Mary went on an errand to find out about five absent
children. The two traveled mostly by canoe. When they got there,
they found there had been a death in the family, so the children
wore dirty black garments. Victoria, usually so responsive, looked
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into space with a wooden expression. She was as immovable as a
piece of statue. She knew how to behave at a funeral. ln the
funeral parade all Mary’s children wore sackcloth, the women ac-
companying them, wailing all the time. l-lowever, in a day or two,
the children all returned and were normally happy, and such a
relief, Victoria was her radiant self.
In great contrast with the funeral parade, was the party
given by the wife of the President General of the British Regency, a
lovely affair. As soon as Mary arrived she was asked to lead the
games. All the children who came entered into the games except
the Catholic children, who were frightened, or who had never played
those games. They would not join in until finally, "Sally, Sally,"
(a popular game used in Mission Schools) was asked for. She wrote,
"You should have seen the Tamils, long full skirts, red, green, and
orange, such fun to see. At refreshment time, the English mothers
would not allow their children to sit on the same mat with the dark
skinned children. This called for utmost tact on the part of the
hostess. She was very diplomatic, and the party ended happily."
It was with real joy that l came upon a letter written to our
mother while Mary was at Taiping. She had already established the
kindergarten in the school, and, at vacation time, with several other
missionaries decided to go up to "The Nest" in the mountains. l
will quote most of her letter: "Where shall l begin? So much to
write! We left Taiping Saturday morning by seven o’clock and were
carried up the hills on the shoulders of coolies, each of us on a
canvas hammock or stretcher. Imagine Mrs. Curtis, Mrs. Benjafield
and I on three stretchers—with a coolie at each end and one running
along the side of each, to relieve the first coolie who could manage
to go only a certain stretch. We went winding around through
jungles on a narrow foot path cut out of the side of the hills joggling
along on the shoulders of half naked black men. Once again, I
was glad I weighed only 93 pounds. The stretcher was not a bit
comfortable with nothing to rest ones back against but we managed
by lying down occasionally. We quite forgot our ridiculous posi-
tion in the fascinating scenery before us. First, wonderful hills; then,
higher and higher into the mountains — beautiful, magnificent ferns
everywhere, palms and varied trees in the height of perfection.
Most wonderful of all were the Parasites — that is where a seed
lodges in the top of a tree; not satisfied to take the life of the tree
but drops roots down, hundreds of feet until they strike the ground
—thrusting one around another until a cable is formed that is
powerful enough for a man to climb, or if cut, to make a bridge. Few
trees escape the Parasites. The trees attain great height to get to the
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sunshine with their small burden of leaves and flowers on short
limbs at the top. Creepers utilize these tall trees, to also get to the
light. Many beautiful kinds of creepers — one kind had leaves
four feet long, odd flowers on some, now and then. Oh, The
grandeur of the scenery! Shall l ever forget these mountains or
these paths? We kept on our way, protected from the sun by the
drapers of shrubbery. We went winding around great projecting
rocks, (the coolies stepping over the paths of mountain streams!
looking down, down into enchanting valleys and up into ragged
mountains, listening to the sound of birds and the call of tree toads."
"Finally, we reached a place called the "Tea Garden" where
tea and coffee is grown. Here we parted with our coolies, they,
having carried us four miles up, up! Now, Mama, here comes the
best part of all — at least to you. I walked the rest of the way 3½
miles up hill. We had tea and crackers at the ’Tea Garden' and
stopped for a few minutes at another bungalow where we had
'ginger-beer'. We dared not stop long for the rain was not far off.
You see, dear little Mother, there is something left of me yet. lt
was only two miles on level land at home which wore met out.
Here I once sat on a stone and said, ’If only I had paid my stretcher
bearer to bring me all the way." But I made it, tired, with only
aching muscles! Oh, but we were rewarded. Such a ’Nest’ it is!"
"We stepped into a cottage as dainty and comfortable as
one could ever find. The rose covered hill slopes down on three
sides from its fifty foot platform, displaying varied views off over
toward adjacent mountains. Sometimes the clouds float far below
us. Imagine the atmosphere —- it is so clear we can glimpse the
sea miles away when clouds lift! We arrived here Saturday and
found only part of our goods had arrived. But the Hindustani cook
had some coffee and bread ready for us. Later we enjoyed a fine
dinner that we certainly relished. My clothing did not arrive until
the next day, but there was a big open fireplace so we dried out as
we reviewed our experience. In the early tropical morning we
feel as though we had been put suddenly on the North Pole. l ex-
pect when I get home, l’ll someday remember this, and ask to be
padded and put over a furnace register to thaw. Sunday was spent
quietly, nothing to be heard except the wind singing and the tree
toads. 3,800 — imagine it — above the city and higher if measured
from the sea. The atmosphere makes me feel vigorous — an old
delightful feeling.
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"Mr. Curtis started his walk down hill because he had to go
to work. We three were alone until Monday night when two more
came from Penang. I waited on the veranda while the others went
to meet the newcomers. Then I heard, ’Miss Cody, it’s time to
wake up!’ Ther stood the two young men. The two boys made
it lively for us all. Don’t worry Mother, Mrs. Curtis is a dignified
chaperone. She used to teach Latin and Greek in Union Seminary.
We have all been studying and writing. Early in the morning when
we look out from our Eiderdown quilts through the windows, we
could easily imagine it was frost on the window panes; clouds
cover us at such times. ’The Nest' is a Fairy House in the clouds.
Some of our party went for a walk when the clouds cleared, each
one returned carrying arms full of large dahlias, like home ones, yes,
and marigolds. The boys carried great fern fronds from the fern
trees. This is the site dreamed of, for our Sanitarium and Boarding
School for Maylasia. The Government has already pledged a yearly
grant of $1,500. We walked to see the whole layout. What a
wonderful retreat it would make for missionaries to get away from
the damp heat of the low lands. We almost got lost in the jungle
so we took a wood cutters path, the boys cut us some rattan sticks
to help us walk. I was a sight on our return. Mr. Hoover said,
'Come see! Here is a chance to see Miss Cody looking very dirty!
My skirt was covered with mud and briars. The next morning we
heard a howling screeching from a concert of monkeys. Maybe they
were protesting our journey into their domain. We must soon
leave this magnificience for the work in the schools."
Here is another letter that tells of one experience Mary was
privileged to have outside her routine of school supervision to the
Caves of Ipoh, Perak:
"Up at five o’clock for a trip to the famous caves. A Shandi-
gan (Cherry is a more familiar name) took 31/2 hours. We rode
from our mission station over cut marble roads — very rough. The
sand covering the cut marble was white and very hard on the eyes,
as the sun shone on the road. We were going to visit a wonderful
cave. The Chinese have made there a temple to their gods. Such
a place! So awe inspiring it naturally seemed to these primitive
people that it must be an abode of Spirits. The cave is inhabited
by priests who have lived there for seven years, thus owning a title
to the property. Every now and then some new spirit reveals him-
self as present in some nook of the cave and forthwith an altar is
raised and incense burned before him. We left our Shandigan in
the street, crossing a bridge over shallow water where lotus flowers,
water lily type, were growing, beautiful immense pink blossoms on
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huge leaves. The Priest met us at the mouth of the cave. A man
of fine figure with a mild intelligent face. He smiled very pleasantly
at us, and bowed. Dr. Luiring wished him, in Chinese, a Happy
New Year. The Priest bowed with both hands together, folded be-
fore his face in salutation, a manner we crudely imitated later when
leaving the cave. Their meal of vegetables was cooking just inside
the cave door. We walked on and stood on a platform built over a
ravinethat had rushed through the cave for years, gradually lowering
its bed until there stands revealed as great a wonder of nature as l
have ever witnessed. A vast marble excavation one or two hundred
feet long and over 200 feet high, or higher. Great projections stood
out, many strange formations, smoothed by erosions. The dripping
of water and lime made the stalactites. A little Chinese boy carrying
a torch, led the way. He startled us by striking these formations. lt
sounded so sweetly, each one a different tone. We walked between
crevices, winding around, sometimes going over marble bridges
which led over the ravine, always under more projections. The
wooden galleries have only been built this year, one above another
and were reached by long stairways. We climbed up to all five
galleries, so you can imagine the height of this cave. There we saw
grottoes so large they have been made into sleeping rooms. Every-
where altars were built to Gods who have revealed themselves as
present in some particular niche, hidden carved faces of gods, nature
gods, a great mother god, gods of kings and of fortune. Josh sticks and
incense burned before the gods. A worshipper must first strike a
gong to awaken the god, and to make sure the god is awake, he
strikes another gong. Having made sure of the god’s attention, he
makes his earnest petition. The poor man decides on the answers
to his prayer by throwing up two sticks. The way the sticks fall
may mean any of three things: ’yes’ or ’| cannot listen to your prayer'
or ’it is ignored’ or ‘no’. The Priest will then throw himself down,
going into a trance when he communes with spirits, l'm told. He
lacerates himself until blood flows freely. They told us that sharp
needle beds and chairs are used. We learned much more. Then
wound our way around down to the entrance. The cave would be
a great place of beauty and wonder if the soot from the priests’
cooking and torch lights and dust were only washed away. lt is
rare marble." (l thought afterward, after these many years, it may
have been cleaned and made an exhibition for travelers from
around the world.) Her powers of description made the family at
home feel that they were living each experience with her.
Mary was in Taiping for five months until someone, who was
supposed to be on the way, could take her place. Naturally the
kindergarten in Singapore had deteriorated during her absence, and
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she returned with plans to visit in the homes, and work with the
girls-in-training, individually, helping to develop them in their weak
points. But shortly after her return to Singapore, Miss Lilly announc-
ed that she herself needed a furlough, having been there five years—
a long hard period in that climate. So it was again necessary for
Mary to assume the responsibility of the whole school, and give up
all plans to visit in homes and give the additional training to her
Singapore teachers.
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